By LESLIE BECK
Wednesday, April 21, 2004 - Page A21

These days, everything from bread to burgers to beer is turning up low-carb. These may sound like oxymorons, but more and more Canadians are seeking out low-carb versions of their favourite foods.

The demand for low-carb foods is fuelled by the popularity of high-protein diets such as the Atkins and South Beach regimens. Both plans contend that eliminating high-carbohydrate foods -- including bread, pasta, grains, fruits and dairy products -- is the key to weight loss.

It's estimated that one in 100 Canadians is shunning carbs. Yet the long-term success of the low-carb diet remains to be seen.

A study published in the New England Journal of Medicine found that, compared to the conventional low-fat/high-carb diet, the high-protein/low-carb plan resulted in greater weight loss for up to six months. However, after one year, there was no difference in the amount of weight lost on the two diets. That was attributed to greater weight regain among the low-carb followers, suggesting that long-term adherence to such a plan may be difficult.

Low-carb devotees might be inclined to think that the newly available low-carb foods will make it easier to stay on course. Even if you aren't carb counting, claims such as "Atkins friendly," "carb-wise," or "only two net carbs" seem to imply a healthier food choice.

Low-carb claims are not defined by Health Canada. Rather, they're marketing terms used by food companies to sell their products.

Scarfing low-carb foods will not automatically make the kilograms fall off. These foods still have calories. A protein bar that boasts only two grams of carbohydrates can still set you back 250 calories.

Many low-carb products are made with sugar alcohols, such as sorbitol, mannitol and xylitol, instead of sugar. These sugar substitutes are not well absorbed, and as a result, they have less of an impact on blood sugar. (Too much can cause diarrhea and cramping.)

Just because sugar alcohols affect your blood sugar to a lesser degree than other carbohydrates doesn't mean they don't influence your weight. Roughly one-half of sugar alcohols are digested and contribute calories. They're not a free lunch.

Calories aside, some of the new low-carb foods are just plain unhealthy. Subway's Atkins-friendly wraps pack a wallop of sodium and half of their calories come from fat, one-third of it cholesterol-raising saturated fat. You're better off ordering a low-fat sub in a carb-reduced tortilla.

Protein platters are popping up on menus at fast-food restaurants. But with or without the bun, a fatty burger isn't a health food. Burger King's Whopper Platter delivers 15 grams of fat -- and that's without the cheese.

Don't get me wrong. Cutting carbs is a smart strategy that can help many of us lose weight and control blood sugars. Who needs huge bagels, muffins and pasta entrees that are the carb equivalent of four to eight slices of bread? Marathoners perhaps. But not the average Canadian.

There are plenty of ways to reduce carbs without feasting on fast foods high in fat and sodium or snacks laden with fake sugar.

Buy smaller loaves of bread. A food guide serving of bread should contain about 15 grams of carbohydrates.

Order appetizer-sized pasta portions -- and skip the breadbasket.

Order your pizza with a thin crust.

Monitor portion sizes of starchy potatoes and corn.

When dining out, substitute extra vegetables for white rice or potatoes.

Let's not forget that some carbohydrate foods are good for us. There's a mountain of evidence that links a steady diet of whole grains, fruit and vegetables (not protein bars!) to a lower risk of heart disease, diabetes and cancer. Boy, that apple sounds good.

Leslie Beck is a Toronto-based dietitian in private practice at the Medcan Clinic. Visit her website at http://www.lesliebeck.com.



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I have a few problems with this article. If you claim that a low-carb, high-fat diet is bad, then what are proving by saying that there is a lot of fat in it? Of course it does-- it's a high fat diet

I do agree that the claims of "low carb" on packages can be misleading. There have been tons of products that I pick up because they claim to be low carb, but when I read the stats, they have way too many carbs for induction. I also believe that sugar alcohols should be counted as net carbs.

I believe that misleading labels should especially be limited when it comes to low carb, because it's really not healthy to do LC halfway. Uneducated folks could easily start eating high-carb, high-fat, and that's not going to do them any good.

The recommendations for lowering carbs is good to see. That's better than the articles that try to defend pasta and bread.

Carbs can be very good for you-- when you get them from healthy sources (whole grains, veggies, berries, etc.) and don't overindulge. We all know that, and we don't see carbs as "evil"-- just something to be moderate with.