March 10, 2004

Cauli-FLOWER: Humble cauliflower is a healthy, tasty choice

By PEGGY TOWNSEND, Sentinel staff writer

http://www.santacruzsentinel.com/ar...ies/01style.htm

Back in the ’70s, someone decided Santa Cruz needed a Polish restaurant. There wasn’t an apparent reason for this inspiration, but the restaurant popped up in Live Oak nonetheless and stuck around for a few years before dying a quiet death.

Besides entrees that cost $3.25, the most memorable thing about the restaurant were the giant hunks of boiled cauliflower that came with the meals.

The serving of cauliflower would sit as limp and uninviting as a sea sponge, and the sheer volume of it made it seem like you were being called upon to eat Mount Everest.

The vegetable was probably not responsible for the restaurant’s demise, but it wasn’t the thing that brought customers in droves.

Which is, sadly, the reputation of cauliflower in the United States, although if Atkins dieters have anything to say about it, the lowly cauliflower may one day climb out of its chunky white funk and become a vegetable of stature.

The truth is, cauliflower has no fat, is high in vitamin C, and can pass for a low-carb version of mashed potatoes with ease.

It even comes in colors like purple and red, and is grown not too far away in Castroville.

Mark Twain called cauliflower "a cabbage with a college education."

And an unexpected degree of sophistication.

Out of Italy

Cauliflower originated in Asia, experts agree, but is mostly associated with Italy, where it became popular in the 16th century.

Even today, Italian cooks mix cauliflower with garlic, olive oil and capers to make salads and hot dishes.

But it wasn’t until the late 1600s that cauliflower came to North America.

We were the first ones to eat it raw, according to Maggie Bezart, vice president of marketing for OceanMist Farms near Castroville, which sells 2 million cartons of cauliflower each year.

Cauliflower is part of the cabbage family, with broad dark green leaves that shelter a heavy white head of buds.

In earlier times, farmers would take rubber bands and tie the leaves over the heads of the cauliflower to keep them from turning yellow from the sun. Today, Bezart said, plants are bred so the big leaves grow naturally over the white curds.

Interestingly, cauliflower is so sensitive to light it grows just as fast during a full moon as it does on a sunny day, she said.

It’s why cauliflower is called a "moon crop."

Buyers, she said, should look for a head that is heavy for its size and a nice white color. Yellowish curds only means the head was exposed to some sunlight.

Black spots, however, indicate bruising or mold and should be avoided, Bezart said.

Even though OceanMist grows only white cauliflower, small-scale farms often offer colored varieties that come in colors of purple, orange and red.

Lo-carb veggie

Growers at OceanMist, who have 1,314 acres of cauliflower planted near Castroville, had hoped the popularity of the Atkins diet and the low-carb nature of cauliflower would boost sales.

Lots of low-carb Web sites carrying recipes for faux mashed potatoes (fauxtatoes, as they are called) made out of cauliflower. They tout the fact that these cauliflower "potatoes" have only 6 grams of carbs while real potatoes have 27 grams, making them a great substitute for those on diets that call for cutting back carbs.

"We were hoping something would swing cauliflower," said Bezart of the rise in popularity of low-carb diets.

Instead, growers have seen a decline in sales of the veggie.

Part of the reason might be the fact that cooking cauliflower leaves a house smelling like a pair of day-old socks.

But Dee Munson of OceanMist Farms says the secret to sweet-smelling cauliflower is to cook it until just tender — no more than 5 minutes.

Overcooking is what makes it smell.

Bezart also said roasting cauliflower doesn’t release powerful smells.

And those who remember cauliflower drenched in a sauce made out of flour, milk and American cheese, might want to take a cue from India, where cauliflower is a key ingredient in spicy, sweet curries.

Here are a number of recipes that just might change your mind about cauliflower.


FAUXTATOES

1 head cauliflower
2 Tbsps. butter (or more to taste)
½ cup cream
salt to taste


Cut the cauliflower head into small chunks and steam until very tender. Drain any water from the cauliflower and blot dry with paper towels. In a large bowl, combine cauliflower, butter and cream. Mash with an electric beater or hand masher until desired consistency. Season with salt.


CAULIFLOWER GRATIN WITH PROSCIUTTO

1 head cauliflower (about 2 lbs. before trimming)
2½ Tbsps. butter, plus more for baking dish
3 Tbsps. fine bread crumbs
Salt
2 Tbsps. all-purpose flour
¾ cup milk
¾ cup low-sodium chicken broth
1 bay leaf
1 garlic clove, peeled and halved
Pepper
1 oz. prosciutto (1 lg. OR 2 sm. thin slices)
1 cup shredded Cheddar (use raw milk Cheddar if desired) OR mozzarella cheese


Trim cauliflower and divide into florets. In a large pot of boiling salted water, cook florets until just tender, about 6 minutes. Drain and run under cold water to stop the cooking. Melt ½ tablespoon butter in a small saucepan over moderate heat. Add bread crumbs and stir to coat with butter. Season with salt. Cook, stirring, until bread crumbs are golden brown, about 5 minutes; set aside.

Melt remaining 2 tablespoons butter in a small saucepan over moderate heat. Add flour and whisk to blend. Cook 1 minute, then add milk, broth, bay leaf and garlic. Bring to a boil, whisking, then adjust heat to maintain a bare simmer and cook 8 to 10 minutes, scraping sides of pan with a spatula occasionally. Season with salt and pepper. Remove bay leaf and garlic. Keep warm.

Cut florets in half or quarters and arrange in a buttered low-sided oval baking dish just large enough to hold them in one layer. Season with salt and pepper. Pour sauce over cauliflower. Tear prosciutto into shreds and scatter over sauce. Top with cheese, then with bread crumbs. Bake in lower third of a preheated 400-degree oven until bubbly and browned, about 30 minutes. Let rest 15 minutes before serving. Serve with chicken, lamb or pork. Makes 6 servings.


CREAM OF CAULIFLOWER SOUP

1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
1 cup chopped onion
½ cup chopped red bell peppers
¼ cup chopped celery
¼ tsp. crushed dried thyme
4 cups low-sodium chicken broth
1 lb. cauliflower florets, trimmed and chopped
1/3 cup heavy whipping cream

1 cup half-and-half
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Chopped parsley for garnish (optional)


In a large pot, heat oil over medium heat. Add onion, bell peppers and celery and saute until vegetables are limp, about 5 minutes. Stir in thyme and broth. Add cauliflower, cover and cook until vegetables are tender, 10 to 15 minutes.

Transfer mixture to a food processor in two batches and puree until smooth. Return soup to pot and stir in cream and half-and-half. Season with salt and pepper. Heat soup through, being careful not to let it boil. Ladle into soup bowls and sprinkle with parsley, if desired. Makes 8 servings.

From "Low-Carb Quick & Easy," by Frances Towner Giedt


SAFFRON-‘SMOTHERED’ CAULIFLOWER

1 (2-lb.) head cauliflower, trimmed and cut into 6 wedges
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
Pinch saffron threads crumbled in a mortar with ½ tsp. salt
10 imported pitted green olives


Toss cauliflower pieces with olive oil in a large bowl. Toss again with saffron.

Place cut-up cauliflower in a large baking pan in a single layer. Sprinkle olives around in spaces in between. Cover pan tightly with foil so steam can’t escape. Bake in preheated 350-degree oven about 1 hour, until cauliflower is tender. Makes 6 servings.

From "Mediterranean Vegetables," by Clifford A. Wright


NIGELLA’S CAULIFLOWER NUGGETS

1 lg. head cauliflower, about 2¾ lbs.
2 to 3 Tbsps. extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and pepper
¼ cup ground cumin


Remove core from cauliflower. Break head into small florets, about ¾ -inch wide. Place in a large bowl and toss with olive oil. Sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste and toss with cumin. Place in a rimmed baking sheet. Roast in a preheated 425-degree oven 30 minutes or until soft and caramelized, turning once during cooking. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, if desired. Serve hot or at room temperature. Makes 4 servings.

From "Cooking 1-2-3," by Rozanne Gold


CAULIFLOWER AND POTATOES WITH SPICES (ALOO GOBHI)

1 head cauliflower (1½ to 2 lbs.)
2 Tbsps. vegetable oil
1 tsp. cumin seeds
3 boiling potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces
2 to 4 Tbsps. peeled and finely shredded fresh ginger
2 tsps. minced garlic
¾ tsp. ground turmeric
½ tsp. cayenne pepper
1½ tsps. salt OR to taste
¾ cup water
¼ cup finely chopped fresh cilantro
½ tsp. garam masala (available in Indian stores and specialty food stores) OR cumin seeds, roasted and ground


Separate cauliflower florets and cut into 1½ -inch pieces. Peel stem and cut crosswise into slices 1/8 -inch thick. Chop leaves, if any, and add to cauliflower.

In a large saucepan over medium-high heat, warm oil. When hot, add cumin seeds and fry until they turn several shades darker, about 30 seconds. Add potatoes and stir-fry until lightly crisped, about 5 minutes. Add ginger, garlic, turmeric and cayenne pepper and mix well. Add cauliflower, salt and water and mix well. Reduce heat to low, cover and cook until cauliflower is very soft, about 7 minutes. Uncover pan, increase heat to medium-high and cook until excess moisture evaporates, about 5 minutes. Check and correct seasonings. Sprinkle with cilantro and garam masala and serve. Makes 6 servings.

From "Savoring India," by Julie Sahni

Contact Peggy Townsend at ptownsend~santacruzsentinel.com.