Carving the carbs

Alterations to traditional Thanksgiving dressing needn’t mean sacrificing flavor

(Recipe for reduced-carb Thanksgiving dressing below)

By Ann Heller, aheller~DaytonDailyNews.com

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Whether it’s in the bird — as stuffing — or in a casserole that’s called dressing, this revered side dish is almost as essential as turkey on Thanksgiving Day.

So what are the low-carb dieters to do? Eat more turkey and skip the dressing as well as foregoing the mashed potatoes, the sweet cranberry sauce and the pumpkin or pecan pie? It would hardly be Thanksgiving.

There are options — some a lot better than others.

Now we all know that first-stage Atkins dieters wouldn’t even indulge in a whiff of a slice of bread. And with dressing, as we’ll call it, the obvious problem is that bread is the main ingredient. A single slice of bread can hold 12 to 24 grams of carbohydrates, and a 3/4 cup serving of Thanksgiving dressing may top out at 33 grams of carbs.

But there are legions of low-carb dieters out there who have progressed to the maintenance stage and can add some carbs. There are others who consciously watch the white carbs without subscribing to a particular diet.

For them, the Thanksgiving dressing answer is to use a low-carb bread and more “stuff” than bread cubes to produce a reasonably reduced-carb dish that tastes like the real thing.

We set out to come up with a turkey dressing with no more than 5 grams of carbs per serving. We succeeded to paring it to 5.6. Cut the portion size and it will have less than 5 grams of carbs.

The challenge was to find a good low-carb bread. There are plenty of brands available, and many are dreadful. Some are spongy, others are gummy. Others taste bitter. A few have the tensile strength of a rubber band.

I have sampled a half dozen varieties available at supermarkets, health food stores and independent bakeries. The most usable comes from Natural Ovens Bakery, which has two low-carb breads, one called Golden Crunch and the other a whole grain bread. The Golden Crunch is loaded with flaxseed, sunflower seeds, millet seeds and oats. Both, found at some Kroger stores, have just 3 grams of carbohydrates when indigestible fiber is deducted.

Toasting improves the flavor and texture, which made the bread a candidate for Thanksgiving dressing.

The additions, the added “stuff,” begin with sausage, which years ago was a favorite in a focaccia stuffing I made for the Thanksgiving turkey. More celery, less onion, mushrooms and nuts, plus lots of fresh herbs such as parsley, sage and thyme are lower-carb extenders.

Of course, it’s the low-carb bread that makes the biggest difference. Since these ersatz breads can be on the dry side, you may need to use more liquid than usual.

If you decide to use the dressing as stuffing in the turkey, be aware that the USDA frowns on that, because of the dangers of bacteria breeding in the interior. Even when the turkey is fully cooked, the interior may not reach the essential 160 degrees to assure safety. No matter what, do not stuff the turkey until it is time to put it in the oven.

Below is the basic recipe, but let your imagination roam.

Contact Ann Heller at 225-2402.

Reduced-carb Thanksgiving dressing

Dayton Daily News

Makes 14 servings

12 slices day-old, low-carb bread, crusts trimmed

8 tablespoons butter

3/4 cup diced onion

4 stalks celery, diced

1 1/2 teaspoons salt, divided use

8 ounces cremini mushrooms, diced

1 pound mild Italian sausage *

2 1/2 to 3 cups turkey or chicken broth

1/2 cup fresh minced parsley (not dried)

2 teaspoons fresh minced sage

1/2 cup toasted walnuts, coarsely chopped

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

3 eggs

The bread needs to be dry, though not as brittle as croutons. If it is still moist, cut into cubes and dry them in a 250-degree oven, but do not let them brown.

Melt four tablespoons of the butter in a large skillet. Add the onion and celery, sprinkle with 1/2 teaspoon salt and cook over medium heat for about 5 minutes, until softened. Use a slotted spoon to remove to a large mixing bowl. Add 2 more tablespoons butter to the skillet and add the mushrooms. Sprinkle with 1/2 teaspoon salt and cook over low heat, stirring occasionally, until the mushrooms have browned and exuded some liquid. Turn up the heat and cook until the liquid is absorbed. Remove mushrooms to the mixing bowl.

In the same skillet, cook the sausage, using a fork to break it up into small pieces. Cook until the meat is no longer pink, then add to the vegetables. Use a splash of the broth, or a bit of sherry to deglaze the pan. Bring to a boil and pour over the vegetables.

The recipe can be prepared ahead to this point and refrigerated. When ready to continue, bring back to room temperature.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Put the bread cubes (there should be about 6 cups) in a large mixing bowl. Add the parsley, sage, walnuts and black pepper. Add the cooked vegetables and sausage, and mix well.

Combine the eggs with the remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt and the broth, and pour over the dressing. The bread cubes should be moist but not wet. Spoon the dressing into a buttered 9-by-12-inch casserole, cover with aluminum foil and bake for 20 minutes. Remove cover and stir. If it seems dry, add a little more broth. If you want a moist dressing, recover with foil and return to the oven. For a crusty brown dressing, remove the foil and bake uncovered. Bake for another 20 minutes.

* Resist the temptation to use turkey sausage, which is so lean it doesn’t crumble well. And it adds little flavor.