Make sure you let me know when you come. :)

Karen

Damn it girl! If I had known it took that long, I would have sent you one!

I once sent a package of unsweetened chocolate to Australia. It took 2 1/2 months and of course the chocolate was a melted and resolidified mess when it arrived. :rolleyes: How sad!

Karen

Passionate about food
Chef Karen Barnaby's recipes are uninhibited and sensuous
Mia StainsbyVancouver Sun
Wednesday, August 18, 2004



CREDIT: Ian Smith, Vancouver Sun

RECIPES THAT WILL KNOCK YOU OFF YOUR FEET: Fish House in Stanley Park chef and cookbook author Karen Barnaby displays her dish of roasted summer tomatoes with parsley, garlic and olive oil.The food muse simply adores Karen Barnaby. I can tell by the way I drool at her recipes.

They flirt shamelessly with taste buds, hold you hostage to temptation and command you to cook. The boldest of her recipes are like the tango, uninhibited and sensuous.

Sweet Potato And Apple Puree goes one step beyond, into seduction territory, with the addition of bourbon. Prawns in Cocoa Sauce awakens curiosity. Banana Chocolate Chiffon Cake with Cappuccino Cream is nothing short of sustained torture unless you can have a taste.

And her Instant Ecstasy Cookies? They deliver everything as promised with no holds barred on chocolate. Any more chocolate and they couldn't be called cookies -- they'd be like big Hershey's kisses, only way, way better, with coffee and pecans and almonds.

Writing her latest cookbook, The Passionate Cook: The Very Best of Karen Barnaby (Whitecap, $24.95), she could have taken easy street and simply compiled the best recipes from her previous cookbooks, but she didn't. She added 50 new recipes to her "best of" collection.

(Previous cookbooks are Screamingly Good Food, Pacific Passions, The Girls Who Dish, The Girls Who Dish: Seconds Anyone? and Inspirations. The last three were in collaboration with a group of women chefs.)

Barnaby, the chef at Fish House in Stanley Park, says the new recipes are from her cooking classes at Tools and Techniques in West Vancouver and The Cookshop at City Square. Altogether, there are 250 recipes in The Passionate Cook.

She doesn't include a lot of her restaurant recipes because typically, they would be difficult.

"I want people to be about to cook from the book. That's why there's no demi [-glace] and reductions and all that fancy restaurant stuff."

The title is apt. Passion is an integral part of Barnaby's relationship with food. For a number of years, this passion was evident not only in her cookbooks and at her restaurant, but when she stepped on her bathroom scale.

Five years ago, she went on a low-carb diet and lost 70 pounds. "I can wear fitted things now. Before, I wore tents because that's what you wear when you're fat."

Recently, she cut her hair, which she "spikes" for special occasions. And, she says, the slim Karen is much neater. "Before when I cooked, I'd make a giant mess. Now I clean as I go along.

"It's just the way I feel, a general sort of freedom to move. My head is less cluttered and my house is decluttered," she says. "I exercise now. I can stand on my head," she says of her progress in Pilates classes. "It's the first time in 27 years!"

The low-carb diet changed the way she eats and she no longer has a taste for breads or rices. "I have a taste of mashed potatoes or pasta now and it's like 'Yuck, how could I have eaten this for so many years?' " she says. But her diet hasn't stopped her from cooking and baking and creating like she's always done.

"I can still taste things, but that's all I need to do. It hasn't made me biased against cooking with carbs."

Ideas for dishes, she says, are all about ingredients and flavours. One Fish House restaurant recipe that made it into the book is the Salmon Bake with Sour Cream, Bacon and New Red Potatoes, one of the best sellers in the history of the restaurant, she says.

"It started with the title 'king salmon bake' spinning around in my head before I knew what it was," she says in her chatty introduction to the recipe. "What it turned out to be was a cozy combination of salmon, cheesey spinach and potatoes."

Sometimes, a memory from the past crowds into the present. The Lemon Crumb Cake with Lemon Curd is a jazzed up version of her "gramma's."

"She used to make crumb cakes all the time," Barnaby says, of her co-conspirator in food. "She used to cook things for me that my parents wouldn't eat, like lamb. We'd have it on the sly before everyone else had dinner." She cooked artichokes, zucchini and eggplants before they were common grocery items. "I don't know where she got them," Barnaby says, "and when she baked, she didn't follow recipes. I always admired that. She didn't measure a thing. It was second nature."

Recently, Barnaby's been waxing nostalgic for some of those childhood favourites, like Stained Glass Cake, made out of Jell-O and whipped cream. "I make it nowadays with sugar-free Jell-O and you know, if you like Jell-O, it's pretty tasty."

If she's bereft of ideas, one assumes Barnaby calls up her muse, who's probably making Lemon Crumb Cake somewhere, without a recipe.

Karen Barnaby's next book, Low Carb Gourmet, will be published in the fall by HarperCollins.

WHOLE SPICED CHICKEN BAKED IN PARCHMENT PAPER:

One of Karen Barnaby's flavour-punched dishes, this chicken goes through two stages of spicing. The recipe is from The Passionate Cook: The Very Best of Karen Barnaby.

1 whole chicken, about 3 pounds (1.4 kg)

Marinade:

1 1-inch (2.5 cm) piece of fresh ginger, peeled and chopped
2 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped
6 tablespoons (90 mL) yogurt
1/2 teaspoon (2.5 mL) turmeric
1 teaspoons (5 mL) sea salt
4 teaspoons (1.25 mL) cayenne pepper

Spice Paste:

1 medium onion, chopped
4 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped
1 walnut-sized piece of ginger, peeled and chopped
2 teaspoons (10 ml) ground cumin seeds
2 teaspoons (10 mL) ground coriander seeds
1/2 teaspoon (2.5 mL) turmeric
1 tablespoon (15 mL) paprika
1/4 teaspoon (1.25 mL) cayenne pepper
1 teaspoon (5 mL) sea salt
1/2 teaspoon (2.5 mL) freshly ground black pepper
1/2 teaspoon (2.5 mL) garam masala
4 tablespoons (60 mL) vegetable oil
2 tablespoons (30 mL) lemon juice

Remove the skin and fat from the chicken. Place all the marinade ingredients in the work bowl of a food processor or blender and process until a fine paste is formed. Rub the chicken inside and out with the paste. Cover and refrigerate for 2 hours.

While the chicken is marinating, make the spice paste. Combine the onion, garlic and ginger in the work bowl of a blender or food processor. Puree until a fine paste is formed. Add all the remaining ingredients except the oil and lemon juice and blend until combined.

Heat the oil in a non-stick pan over medium-high heat. Add the spice paste and fry, stirring frequently, until the paste is dry and light brown. Remove from the heat and add the lemon juice. Let cool.

Preheat the oven to 350 F (175 C). Lay out two pieces of parchment paper that are large enough to enclose the chicken comfortably. Place one on top of the other to double wrap the chicken. Rub the chicken inside and out with the spice paste. Place the chicken on the parchment paper. Bring the ends of the parchment paper over the chicken and fold down to form a tight seal. Fold the remaining ends tightly.

Place in the oven and bake for 2 hours. An instant-read thermometer is extremely useful to check if the chicken is done. Push the thermometer through the parchment into the thickest part of the thigh. It should read 180 F (85 C).

Remove from the oven and let the chicken sit for 10 minutes. You could serve the chicken at the table, opening up the parchment to enjoy the first delicious rush of fragrance, or you could cut it up in the kitchen. Serve with the juices on the side if serving whole and drizzled over the chicken if cut up.

Makes 4 to 6 servings.

Not CanWest kitchen tested.

PEAR SALAD WITH BASIL AND PECORINO CHEESE:

Pear season is just around the corner. This salad would nicely accompany the Spiced Chicken Baked in Parchment Paper. The recipe is from The Passionate Cook: The Very Best of Karen Barnaby.

3 ripe pears (Bartletts are a good choice)
2 tablespoons (30 mL) balsamic vinegar
1 teaspoon (5 mL) honey
3 tablespoons (45 mL) olive oil
1/4 teaspoon (1.25 mL) coarsely ground black pepper
1/2 cup (120 mL) loosely packed Pecorino Romano shavings (See note)
1/4 cup (60 mL) fresh basil leaves, torn into small pieces

Peel and core the pears. Cut each into 8 wedges. Mix the balsamic vinegar with the honey, add the pears and toss to coat them with the mixture. Arrange the pears on a serving platter and drizzle with the olive oil. Scatter with the black pepper, the cheese shavings and the basil.

Makes 4 servings.

Note: Make cheese shavings by drawing a vegetable peeler across a wedge of cheese.

Not CanWest kitchen tested.

ROASTED SUMMER TOMATOES WITH PARSLEY, GARLIC AND OLIVE OIL:

Get the tastiest tomatoes possible for this dish -- heirlooms or vine-ripened, says Karen Barnaby. And they should be large-sized. If they're too small, they'll burn. The recipe is from her new cookbook.

2 pounds (900 g) ripe tomatoes, about 8 large
1/2 teaspoon (2.5 mL) sea salt
4 tablespoons (60 mL) olive oil
4 cloves garlic, minced
2 tablespoons (30 mL) fresh parsley, finely chopped
1 teaspoon freshly ground pepper

Preheat the oven to 400 F (200 C). Wash and cut the tomatoes in half crosswise. Place them, cut side up, in a 9 x 13 inch (23 x 33 cm) baking dish. They will fit snugly.

Sprinkle with the salt and drizzle with 2 tablespoons (30 mL) of the olive oil. Place in the middle rack of the oven and back for 45 minutes.

Mix together the remaining olive oil, garlic, parsley and black pepper.

Remove the tomatoes from the oven and spread with the mixture. Return to the oven and bake 45 minutes longer.

Makes 6 to 8 servings.


http://www.canada.com/vancouver/van...ae-b7f46f2f01fd

I really enjoyed the review in this morning's paper and glad you reprinted it here, Karen! Spiky hair, eh? Sounds (and looks) like fun. :cool:

What a great review, Karen! I read it in the paper and kept thinking "I know her, I know her!". :D

And you've even eaten at my home and met my dogs! :D

Karen

Yes, I have! And it was much appreciated, too :) Once I get this place sold and I figure out where I'm moving to, I hope to reciprocate!

Way to go, Karen! :yay: Saw another lovely write-up about you and your food wizardry, this time in the September edition of Canada's Healthy Living Guide.

I especially liked the list of essentials in "A chef's pantry". Do you mind if I ask a silly question, though? What is galangal root, where can you get it around Vancouver and how do you use it? Ditto for lime leaves? (Is this all in the book? :blush: )

It's time for me to "Thai something different" :) as I'm kind of in a rut with my endless salads of mixed greens, blue cheese, olives, some kinda meat or fish. Maybe I'll feel more like cooking now that the weather's getting cooler.

Was that in Alive Magazine? I think I mentioned galingal in that article.

I get that kind of stuff at the New Asia Market on Hastings between Gore and Main.

Galingal is used in curry pastes and in slices for seasoning stew-y type dishes. It looks similar to ginger, but doesn't taste like ginger. Kaffir lime leaves are shredded for stir-fries or added whole to soups and curries. The Thai Coconut Chicken Soup on page 47 uses both of them.

If you and anyone else ever wants to go for a Chinatown tour, I'm your gal. :)

Karen

Thanks for the explanations, pictures, and shopping hint, Karen. Must find those ingredients and try the Thai Coconut Chicken Soup--mmm, sure sounds good with this cold and rain again :yum:


It's not Alive magazine but it's published by them ("Canada's Healthy Living Guide"), unless they've changed their name (I couldn't figure it out from Alive's website). First time I've ever seen this publication--picked it up at Thrifty's in Victoria.The author was Jason McRobbie.

He included your recipes for Seared prawns with romescu sauce, sablefish with clams and chorizo sausage, and baked apples with mascarpone and amaretti. And a quote from you about how you hear a lot of people saying they could never cook for you 'as though being a chef I am approaching cooking with a completely different rule book.' That's reassuring! Now I don't feel so silly about suggesting a potluck sometime for the Vancouver group. :)



Wow, what an offer, Karen, that sounds like fun! I haven't eaten much of anything Chinese (or Asian) since starting this WOE and REALLY miss it so would appreciate your tips.

I'd be happy to set up a thread if you suggest some times that would work for you this fall. Would you maybe want to combine it with the night market? And have you ever been to Richmond's night market? I'm interested in both but put off by the idea of crowds and traffic.... Just checked and Chinatown's ends Sept. 12, Richmond's Oct. 3, so that might be too limiting.

The night market is kind of dodgey. If you go there once, that's all you need. It's mostly clothing and chatchkas. But, a lot of people like that kind of open market feeling. :)

Sunday would be the best day for a tour. I'll figure out if there is any place we can actually eat! I too, rarely eat anything Asian unless I make it myself. We could always have lunch at my place if no one minds two pesky dogs. :lol:

Karen

Hi Karen,

I am planning a small dinner party with friends- nothing too fancy but I would like to make the Salmon Bake with Sour Cream, Bacon and New Red Potatoes from your book. Could you help me round out the menu?? Perhaps a salad/appy- maybe even a dessert idea? Thank you so much. I don't follow a low carb diet so anything goes!

Ohhh, I would *love* to do a Chinatown tour! Sounds like a lot of fun!

I made your 5 Spiced Walnuts the other day, Karen.... using Splenda instead of sugar, of course. They didn't turn out as good as yours but were still VERY good. I love that Chinese 5 Spice powder and must search for other ways to use it! :)

Thai Coconut Chicken Soup (Tom Ka Gai), p. 47
 

Thanks to Karen's lead, I was able to pick up galangal, kaffir lime leaves, lemon grass and Thai chilis at the Asia Market on Hastings Street. Thanks for opening a whole new world to me, Karen (and for the pictures, which really helped,).

I put the new ingredients to good use with the Thai Coconut Chicken Soup (and froze the rest so I've now got a stash of Thai ingredients ready to go). Instead of using boneless chicken breast meat (and cooking it in the broth), I chopped up some leftover free-range chicken I had from a roast and the soup was very tasty. I'm so impressed by the subtleness--and yet intensity--of the flavours, and I especially liked the way Karen describes adjusting so it's "a balance of tart, sweet and salty."

Didn't do a carb count but it seems that the carbs would come mainly from the coconut milk (I believe about 2g/60 ml) and the lime juice (negligible), so I scarfed down 2 servings with my old friend Impunity, and enjoyed it thoroughly. I also went easy on the Thai chilis for my DH, using good old Rooster brand hot sauce to spice mine up some more.

DELICIOUS!

Highly recommended!

Five Spice Sesame Walnuts, p. 37
 

Oooh, Jean, thanks for pointing this one out. I'm going to have to do a search of the freezer to see if I can find any nuts hidden away. Yum.

The only thing I'd quibble with is "Keeps for 2 weeks at room temperature"! Ha!

:lol: 2 weeks???? hahahhahahaha

Wow Anny! You are really gonig to town. I give you :thup: :thup:.
Chicken or pork with soy sauce, creme no brulee?

Karen

Aw shucks, Karen, thanks! :o It's amazing how much of an effect a little climate change and one inspiring chef can have.

Heard a rumour about a walk thru Chinatown??

I would definitely be up for a tour of Chinatown!! I'd love to get some more ideas for low carb greens...

Keeping in mind that I'm a very simple-recipe cook, I like to use the Chinese spice sprinkled on stirfried coleslaw (the precut, no-dressing bagged salad) in olive oil.... :yum: :yum: :yum: I also use it on chicken and fish and sometimes add some sour cream to it :)

Love that stuff! I'm actually all out, so if there's a tour in the works... :thup:

ttfn,

Nicole

Is it the "room temperature" part or the idea of them even lasting 2 weeks that's the joke??? ;)

The idea of them lasting that long! hahahaha They are gooooood! :) Now if we could only figure out how to low carb the wine biscotti! :D

5 spice sesame walnuts, p. 37; chai-spiced nuts p. 38
 

Ummm...now i'm inclined to think it's a typo. Mine lasted 2 days, not 2 weeks. Well, maybe 24 hours, so 2 days if you count the day I made them .... :lol:

Has anyone tried the Chai Spiced nuts on page 38??? They look yummy, too--and Karen suggests they're good as a gift. Never too early to start procrastinating on Christmas presents ! :p

wine biscotti?
 

Jean, The low-carb comfort food cookbook (by the Eades & Ursula Solom) has a couple variations on biscotti recipes, pp. 258-259. You could probably figure out how to work some wine in. Hmmm, i see they even have a gluten-free one that uses soy protein powder and whole almond meal. Yum! :yum:

I've looked at that book in the bookstores a few times, but haven't yet purchased it. I'll have to check it out again sometime!

you're welcome to borrow mine sometime if you like, then I'll get the benefit of someone who actually TRIES OUT the recipes instead of just READING them, like i do! :lol:

I have it and there are a few interesting ideas. They use black soy beans in brownies to make them fudgy and little bits of flour here and there, like in the biscotti. I wouldn't use flour, but if it doesn't send you off into an allergic or binge reaction I suppose small amounts would be OK. Like Anny, I haven't tried any of the recipes either!

How about a red wine and pepper flax muffin? :lol:

Karen

Anny, I just might take you up on that... and once, I find them in all these boxes, I'll swap ya one or more of the LC books I have here! :)

Karen is SO in The Zone (or whatever it's called for Protein Power folks)! A new book with recipes from Vancouver's best chefs is out and apparently Karen has 3 recipes in it--all of them low-carb. The book's called Vancouver Cooks, it's published by Douglas & McIntyre--something for us BCers to look for when we're browsing bookstores. Congrats, Karen! :clap: :clap: :clap: